Not another Simon Game!!!
Yes, the Simon Game has sort of been "done to death" in Instructables. On top of that, I am going to refer you to somebody elseís Instructable for the construction and coding of this project, at least the breadboarding of the "untwisted" version. So most of the work for this Instructable has already been done, just not by me.
The twist to this Simon Game is just that. There are no buttons to push. Instead of using pushbutton switches, I used tilt sensor switches so that when you twist your hands to, fro, left or right you activate a switch for the LED you are suppose to light up.
The Instructable you need to look at to build and code is:
done by mpilchfamily. He did a great job and I really enjoy his project.
The reason I built this one is a bit selfish. I am an old guy who has occasional "senior moments". The younger people who donít know what that is might want to Google it.
I like to keep my mind active and as sharp as I can. So, I use the Simon game for memory, concentration and sequencing practice. Unfortunately, another problem I have is some arthritis in my thumb joints that bothers me now and then and makes even pushing buttons painful. So that is why this idea was born.
On the plus side, using the tilt sensor switches also makes the game go faster and seems easier to play for everybody. I found it is more fun to play and others that have tried my project think so too.
If you have thought about, but have not built a Simon game for yourself or someone else as a gift, maybe my "Simon Game with a Twist" might be what you are looking for.
See it here:
Step 1: Parts and Construction
As I mentioned earlier most all of the parts, wiring and construction info can be found here:
The only parts that are different on my project are the tilt sensors switches that I picked up on eBay. I used the metal can and balls units that were mounted on small circuit boards which made it easier for me to mount in my case. See the picture above.
There are some of these metal can ones that are mounted on boards with extra circuitry but that extra circuitry is not needed for the project.
Also, if you want, you can buy the switches by themselves and mount on perf board to accomplish the same idea.
Of course mercury tilt switch sensors will work, but other than being more dangerous if the glass is broken, you also can not hear them for setup as I talked about and showed in my video.
You can see in my pictures how I went about mounting the switches and LEDs.
One note about the LEDs on my project. I first put them on a breadboard with a small current limiting resistor of 330 ohms on each to check color and brightness. I found they not only varied in brightness, but some were so bright they "hurt" my eyes to look at. So, I kept substituting resistors for each LED to bring down the brightness so that they were easy to look at and about the same brightness as each other. In my case I had a 1 K ohm resistor on one, a 2K ohm on another and 10K ohms each on the other two. It is just a matter of personal preference.
If you look at the picture of the inside of my completed project, you can see "bumps" in the heat shrink on some of the LED leads. Those are the resistors mentioned..
That is it for my part of the project... enjoy... paulindallas