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I have always had a fascination for speakers, but a fear of guns! If i was offered to fire a real gun, I would instantly deny (I'm always afraid that I'll mess it up and accidentally shoot myself, or something of the sort) However, I liked the idea of firing a gun without any risk of getting hurt, so I made the Shotgun Speakers. All you have to do is download the app "iGun Pro HD" (it's free) on your iPhone or iPod, plug in your device to the compartment on the side of the gun, go turn your volume all the way up, and start firing the gun on the app! The speakers used in this project can handle bass much better than those used in an iDevice, so the shots sounds much more realistic!
Don't think this is just for making gun noises! You can still listen to music, and if you hold the gun over your shoulder, you can look really cool doing it. This project was really interesting to make, and the final outcome was great. This project will be great for a Halloween prop, especially if you're going as a gangster or a crazed killer. Enough with the talking, let's build it!
Note: I am not responsible for any damage you may do (especially to your device). Also, I got a new camera, so now the picture quality will be much better! Sorry, but I blocked out my face
Step 1: Gather Your Stuff
For this project you will need the following:
Step 2: Draw and Cut Your First Layer
In this project, there are multiple outlines of the same gun that will be cut out from the foam. Each of these cut outs is called a layer. I will be using the term "layer" a lot in this Instructable.
This is one of the more creative parts of the Instructable. Decide what kind of gun you want to draw , for it doesn't have to be a shotgun! However, remember that the gun (I recommend that you draw a shotgun) you make has to have ample room to store both your speaker and your iDevice. Once you know what you want to draw, grab your pencil and eraser and get to work! I chose to make my gun a shotgun because the stock and body region had tons room of to work with. In this step, make sure you pay attention to detail, but don't draw too meticulously! Leave out parts such as the trigger and sight, which can be added on later. For now, focus on getting the outline of the gun with the main parts, like how I did. If your gun has a long barrel (like mine), use a yardstick to get the line straight.
Once you are satisfied with you outline, use your knife to cut it out. Take your time cutting this first layer out, for all of the other layers will be based off this one. When you finally cut it out, touch up the layer until it looks like how you want it.
Tip: If the gun you are drawing exists, I recommend looking up an image of it so you can get the details right!
Step 3: Drawing and Cutting the Remaining Letters
Using your first layer and your pencil, begin tracing out your layer on the same board of foam. You should be able to get four layers from each board (and with two boards, that should be 8 layers). Once you have all your layers traced out, begin cutting them out. Occasionally, you may have to touch up some of the layers.
Step 4: Modify the Top and Bottom Layers
This step mainly applies depending on the type of gun you are making. If you are making a shotgun, I recommend this step to add more dimension to your gun. Stack up all 8 layers so it looks like a gun. Then, take the bottom layer and top layer out and stack the on top of each other. Next, cut the barrel off of these two layers. Then, place them back in order. This step makes the gun feel more "rounded", and prevents the barrel from being ridiculously wide.
Step 5: Adding a "Wooden" Stock
Take any one of the layers, and place the stock (the wider part towards the end of the gun) of the gun on the cardboard, so the rest of the gun goes off the edge of the board. Then, trace out the stock with your pencil, and use your knife to cut it out. Do this again so you have two stock pieces. These pieces will go on top of the modified top and bottom pieces we made in Step 4. Making the stock out of cardboard gives the effect that it is made of wood, so the gun looks much more realistic.
Step 6: Start Gluing Layers Together
Remember those two modified pieces and the two stock pieces we made in Steps 4 and 5? DO NOT GLUE THOSE TO ANYTHING YET. ALSO, TAKE ONE FULL LAYER AND SET THAT ASIDE AS WELL. Right now, just focus on gluing the 5 layers we have left. Using your hot glue gun and hot glue, use ample glue on each layer to bond it to the next one. However, it is important you only apply glue to the edges of the layers, not the inner parts. This is very important because we will have to cut out compartments for the device and the speaker, and it is very difficult to do that when the internal portions are glued.
When you're finally done, you'll have a semi-finished gun!
Step 7: Cutting the Many Compartments
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There are three main compartments in this gun: the speaker compartment, the device compartment, and the audio cable compartment.
First, lets focus on cutting the speaker compartment. Find something that has the same diameter as your speaker (in my case, I used a coaster that was exactly 3 inches in diameter), and trace it on top of the stock area of the 5 layered gun you made in the previous step. Also trace it in the same location on the two modified layers, the stock pieces, and the one normal layer you set aside. Once you have it traced, use your knife to cut out all the outlines you drew. The speaker compartment is the only compartment that goes through every single layer (even the ones we haven't glued yet) of the gun.
Now, let's cut the device compartment. First, trace out your device (in horizontal position) on the body of the gun, but only trace this on the five layered gun and the one full layer we set aside. Make sure the compartment is in the same position on both layers, and make it a little bigger than your device. Once you finish drawing the lines, cut out the compartment so it is 2 layers deep. Remember to cut this out on the full layer we set aside earlier.
Finally, lets cut out the audio cable/jack compartment. The audio jack compartment should be two layers deep, and about an inch long. The cable compartment should only be one layer deep. The final result will be like a staircase (with only two steps). Tha jack compartment should be attached to the device compartment. The cable compartment should run from the jack compartment to the speaker compartment. You only need to cut these two compartments on the 5 layered gun.
Now, we are ready to start embedding the pieces into the gun!
Step 8: Getting Your Speaker Ready!
To make my speaker fit in its compartment, I had to wrap the audio cable around the speaker until there was only about 5-4 inches left. Then, I glued the wrapped portion of the cable together, so it doesn't unwrap. This step makes it easier to put your speaker in the compartment.
Step 9: Modifying One of the Barrel-less Pieces
Get ONE of the pieces we modified in step 4 (the pieces without the barrel). Make a vertical incision all the way down the piece (it should not go all the way through the piece), so the piece can be folded like a hinge. Apply some packing tape to this region so it doesn't tear. Then, cut a device compartment in the same position as it is on the 5 layer gun. HOWEVER, make sure this compartment is slightly smaller than the device. This will help prevent the device from falling out. I will refer to this extra modified piece as the "window piece". The other modified piece (the one without a barrel or a device compartment) will be called the "back piece". Now, go ahead and glue this window piece on top of the full layer we set aside.
Step 10: Insert the Speaker
This step is pretty complicated, but I will try my best to explain it to you. First, feed the speaker through the speaker holes we made on the window piece and the ful layer. Once the speaker is through these two layers, move everything down to the 5 layered gun. Make sure the speaker goes through the layers in this gun as well. While doing this, make sure the audio cable and the jack go into their respective compartments. Now, rotate the two top pieces so that the audio jack and cable is visible. Apply generous amounts of glue to them so they stay in place.Now, go ahead and glue the back piece and one of the stock pieces to the back of the gun. The speaker should fall into the compartments of these pieces as well. Now, go ahead and glue down the full layer piece (the one below the window piece) to the gun. This folding area will act as a window so we can take our device in and out of the gun. Finally, go ahead and glue the top stock piece down on to window piece. It should not interfere with the opening and closing of the window piece
Step 11: Adding Velcro to the Window Piece
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For this step, you will need some Velcro. Lift the hinge portion of the window piece upwards. Start by cutting out a small square (about 1 inch by 1 inch) into the full layer of the gun (not the window piece), and make it one layer deep. Then, glue in a small extra piece of cardboard the same size as the hole. Now, take the two pieces of Velcro (the side with the burrs and the side with the fluff), and attach them together. Then, glue one side down to the cardboard. Now, apply glue to the side facing up (there should be no glue on the burrs or fluff on the surface you are gluing. The glue should be on the back sides of the Velcro), and move the hinge piece back down. The end of the hinge piece should secure to the top half of the Velcro. Now, lift the hinge piece back up. You should see one of the Velcro sides sticking to it, while the other half is still in the compartment. This let's the window stay firmly closed, but easy to open!
Step 12: Adding a Sight and a Trigger
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This step is just a matter of adding details. To make a sight, grab a small rectangle of foam and cut it in half diagonally. The result should be two small right triangles. Glue these triangles together so that they form a thicker triangle. Then, glue this larger triangle to the front of the barrel. This will be our sight for the gun!
To make a trigger, grab a piece of excess cardboard and draw a crescent shape. Cut out the shape with your knife, and then cut it in half. Then, glue the two halves together. Now, glue the wider end of the crescents to a small square of cardboard. Finally, glue this square to the bottom of the gun so that the curve of the trigger faces away from you. The trigger is done!
Step 13: Adding a Cap to the Back Stock Piece
You might have noticed that the back of the speaker is exposed when you turn the gun around. To solve this, just cut out a circle of cardboard that is larger that than the hole of the speaker compartment. Apply a little glue to the back of the speaker and the rim of the compartment, and place the circle down. This should cover the compartment nicely!
Step 14: Using the Shotgun Speakers
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Using the speakers is very easy. First, open up the Velcro that secures the window piece down, and lift the window piece up. Then, grab your device and plug it in to the audio jack goes into the audio port of your device. Then, close the window piece. Now, you play your music or play with the iGun app!
To remove your device, simply lift up the window, and tilt your device upwards. Then, pull your device out and close the window. That's all there is to it!
Step 15: Modifying
There are tons of ways you can modify this gun:
Step 16: Conclusion
I had a fun time making this gun, and I might even use this on Halloween to scare the trick or treaters (just kidding, that's mean). Of course, this gun is fun to play with, and is completely safe. If you need any help, feel free to PM me. If you have any suggestions or corrections, please leave a comment. If you make one of these, please leave a picture in the comments! I can't wait to see what you guys make! Anyways, I hope you enjoyed, and thanks for watching!