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Some of you may or may not know what Polaroid transfers are. Those that have done actual transfers may scream blasphemy! while those who haven't may rejoice in finding a decent tutorial on how to replicate the effect.
Real Polaroid transfers provide a very unique effect, most notably around the edges of the photo. As Polaroid film stock either disappears or stops being produced entirely methods like this will be the only way to duplicate the effect.
I was recently working on a shoot where the editing was leading me down a path that made the photo look a little "grungy" and I thought a polaroid border would suit it well. I knew at one time there was some nice soul who had posted up a psd template that was an actual scan of a blank polaroid transfer so I started looking. After 2hrs and many stock photo sites that were selling exactly what I was looking for I decided what kind of photographer/graphic designer/photoshop fiend would I be if I simply purchased this file. Luckily I stumbed across a post that mentioned using ink and some watercolour paper, that's all I needed to read and I was off to find the box with my drawing stuff.
This process is quite simple, there are probably a multitude of ways to do this and I encourage you to tailor this process to your own style.
Step 1: Prepare your work surface
Prepare your work surface. Lay down some newspaper so you don't get ink on your table. It may also be a good idea to wear some old clothes just in case you splatter yourself.
Step 2: Prepare your palettePrepare your palette. Just like an artist has a palette we need one too, something to put the ink onto. Use a separate piece of paper or an old margerine container lid, the margerine lid is better since it won't soak up the ink on you. Spread the ink out in a line on your makeshift palette.
Step 3: Wet your "brush"
Run the edge of your popsicle stick lengthwise along the line of ink so that the whole edge is saturated.
Place the ink onto your watercolour paper and gently rub it lengthwise back and forth while slowly pulling it towards you then slowly pushing it away from you. The idea is that as there is less ink it will start to leave voids and you'll get that "rough" look.
Step 4: Lather Rinse Repeat ;)
Repeat for the remaining sides of your border. You may want to take another popsicle stick and break 1/3 of it off to use the remaining 2/3 section for the short sides of your border, this will give you a proper aspect ratio for your border. When I did it I wasn't that fussy, I knew I could correct the aspect ratio and more in photoshop. In the example below I didn't care that my "short sides" extended past the corners because I knew I would be erasing away the parts I didn't like.
Step 5: Post Processing : Scanning the border
Scan your raw border(s) at as high a dpi as you can, if you're taking the time to do this right you'll want quality borders that you can use with future cameras that may be higher resolutions.
Step 6: Post Processing : Straighten
Open the scan in Photoshop or Gimp. Perform any straightening/rotating you may need to. If your ink wasn't black press shft-ctrl-U or to turn it black and white, or you may want to see how it looks as is first.
Step 7: Post Processing : Cleaning up the edges
Cleaning up the image. Use the eraser tool and first select a large brush with a hard edge, then start erasing away the unwanted areas. You may want to try one of the brushes that looks like spraypaint, this will give you a more irregular shape.
Step 8: Post Processing : Crop
Crop the image down to get rid of the excess white border (the border around our border ;)
How much you crop is up to you, maybe you only want the inner border left or maybe not. Its up to you.
Step 9: Post Processing : Creating the layers (A)
We now need to see how this is going to look. Duplicate your layer and name it "Polaroid Border Black". Set the blend mode to "Multiply". Then select your old background and delete the contents leaving a blank layer (click on background layer, then CTR-A, then delete). Now fill that layer in with a beige colour just so we can see how our blending will work.
Step 10: Post Processing : Creating the layers (B)
Some people might stop here and you're welcome to if you'd like however I want to add a little more realism to the border. If you're with me, click on the Polaroid Border Black Layer and duplicate it, name it Polaroid Border White.
Step 11: Post Processing : Creating the layers (C)
Invert the colors of the new border by holding Ctr then "i", now change the layer blending mode to "Screen". Don't worry it's going to look a little strange at this point.
With the "white" layer still selected press Ctr-A to selecte the entire canvas, then under the edit menu at the top of the screen choose Transform>Rotate 180?
Step 12: Post Processing : Creating the layers (D)
This looks better but the layer order is wrong. Drag the "Polaroid Border White" layer between the black border and the background layer.
At this point the border is pretty much finished, if you want you can erase away different sections of the layers to "tweak" it a little more and you can play with opacity. When I do this I like to have an actual image under the frame so I can see what to tweak. Once the adjustments are done save this as a PSD file so that you can always change the different layers if you want to.
Step 13: Using The Border : Open the file
Open up an image that you want to apply the border to and note the dimensions. For this example I'm using the full resolution of my Canon 40D which is 3888x2592.
Step 14: Using The Border : Matching Size
Now we're going to try to match your border to the image size your camera takes, however we want to make it just a little bigger so that the border isn't encroaching on your photo too much.
Open your Polaroid transfer border and select Image Size front he Image menu at the top of the screen. Determining the right size is tricky and may take a few attempts, start with your the dimensions from step 1 then add an extra 10% to the width and about 6% to the height. Make sure you uncheck "Constrain Proportions" box. Paste your camera image into the border and make sure the border overlaps it but that the image doesn't extend past the border. If it doesn't just "undo" back to the re size and try again. For me a good number worked out to be roughly 4120x2860 which is where I got the 10% and 6% from. Once you have it right, delete the image layer leaving only the borders and the background, change the background colour back to white, and save it as a psd file.
Step 15: Using The Border : Adding your photo in-between
Now you're ready to use it with any photo however every time you use it you will have to paste your desired image into the Polaroid frame. Make sure when you paste the photo in that you move the layer so that it is just above the background layer.Once you have it lined up right choose the SAVE AS command to save so that you don't overwrite your template file.
Step 16: Troubleshooting
There are 2 main things that can go wrong, both are easily fixed.1) Your black border is too transparent even though the opacity is set to 100. If this happened its because your ink wasn't dark enough, to fix this select the black border layer and press Ctr-L to bring up the levels tool. Adjust the black slider to bring it up to a true black.2) Your photo extends past your border but only in a few spots. Easy, just erase it away.** The example at the top follows all the steps to the end with the added step of using additional layer containing stained parchment. This is a texture layer that was blended using multiply, opacity set to 50, and masked off to avoid contaminating the model's skin.
Step 17: Download The Border Featured In This Instructable
If you want you can download the border I created while writing this tutorial by clicking here.It is a 5MB PSD file compressed in RAR format. http://rapidshare.com/files/219622683/Full_Border.rar