DR1 is a rover robot with Arduino Core. Many robots on the Internet are designed to solve a determined problem, such as localization, light following, obstacles detection.
The purpose of this project was to create a robot which includes all those features and much more... All this in a relatively small body.
The DR1 is designed to be controlled with a PC/Mac and not with a remote control as it is a much more sophisticated vehicle, impossible to control with few controls.
The fist problem was to design a body and a component's disposition which could reduce wire connections and at the same time respect the right and logical place for each component.
But the real challenge was to reduce power consumption of each component choosing a battery which could give the robot a considerable autonomy and at the same time not exceed the maximum weight limit based on engineering calculations about torque force of the small engines.
Step 1: DR1 - Features
Step 2: DR1 - Drive Modes
DR1 is designed to run lots of drive modes as it includes movement API and then it can include some more piece of software on board or from the home base software.
Standard drive modes are:
Step 3: DR1 - Components
Wireless SD Shield
Step 4: DR1 - Materials
The DR1 is made of a strong and light sort of plastic: Basterglass 2mm. This material is very strong but at the same time is enough flexible to ensure amortization
Also the wheels has been chosen for amortization. Outrider is made of rubber and this ensure reduction in shaking caused by path's imperfections
DR1 is made of 4 pieces of plastic joined with bolts, nuts and washers. These bolts and nuts are as small as possible to reduce weight.
Step 5: DR1: The initial project
This was the fist project sketched on paper just to understand the real dimensions of each componente and its best position.
Many components had been moved or rotated for structural and logistic problems.
Step 6: Prepare the wheels
Using a Dremel I have cleaned the inner part of the wheels. This process ensures a better grip of the Wheel Adapter and removes the plastic's imperfections.
If you don't own a Dremel or another rotary tool (which I highly recommend) you can use a rasp or sandpaper.
Step 7: Mounting wheels and motors
I have mounted wheel adapter with screw hub using machine screw (socket head) dividing them with a spacer obtained with a small plastic tube of the same diameter of the screw.
I have then added the motor and the motor mount and then the wheel.
I have soldered the optical encoders to the motor back
Step 8: Cutting plastic and creating the first layer
With the help of some masking tape I have traced some lines to help me cut the plastic and and make the most important holes in the plastic.
In this process a Dremel is fundamental and really the right choice!
Step 9: Mounting all layers and testing wheels and motors
I have tested the wheel and motor's mount on a single layer and then I have mounted all together. It's very important to check in each side and in lots of position the height between each layer, this increases alignment and balancing and increases the robot's precision.
Step 10: Creating the light module
I have cut a piece of L plastic and I have made some holes.
I have mounted and soldered White LED ultra bright.
The LEDs are separated so they can be can be switched on and off independently.
Step 11: Installing ON/OFF switches and battery cable
I have mounted ON/OFF switches which allow to start/stop the robot (left one) and the camera (right one).
I have soldered and fastened the battery cable with a small piece of plastic cut from the original one.
Step 12: Mounting current sensor and step-up
I have soldered the current sensor (to control the amount of current that flows over the sensor) and the step-up to increase the voltage from 7,2V to about 11V (for the camera).
I have also connected the battery cable to the ON/OFF switches and then the power jack for camera.
Step 13: Testing and soldering motor drivers with motors
I advice you to test every component off the robot and also write some example software to verify the right behavior of each component.
Here I have tested the dual motor drivers and the motors.
Step 14: Installing light sensors
I have mounted the light sensors paying attention not to short circuit the wires.
I have secured the two sensors with two screws.
Step 15: Mounting dual motor drivers and current sensor's wires
I have soldered wires to the dual motor driver and then I have attached it to the structure.
I have soldered wires also to the current sensor and I have connected both current sensor and motor driver to the power system.
Step 16: Joining all together
Starting from the lower layer I have joined all layers together with the help of screws and nuts.
I admit: this is the most difficult part! All that wires made me mad! But... I am still here, sane enough! :)
I advise to make small labels and attach them to the wires so you can recognize them when they are on the other layer with no difficulty.
Step 17: Mounting the two side ultrasonic sensor
I have mounted the two side ultrasonic sensor on a base obtained from a L plastic and I have tightened the nuts to make everything very solid.
Step 18: The result
Here it is! Compact, very solid (more than my expectations), fast and responsive!
Step 19: The video
This is the old DR1, when only basic features were implemented. Here we tested start, stop and restart with the use of only one led to display starting process.
Well, thanks for reading! And don't forget to vote for me in the contests if you liked my instructable!