My first guide in instructables :D, This week I built a 15x18 cm (expandable) prototype robot for the next robotics competition here in the Philippines.
Quadcopters, Hovercrafts, Drones, Helicopter, you name it, they are getting much more common these days. So I thought of building something new and unique for the DIY community. A multipurpose robot that can adapt with most robotics games like sumobot, Line follower, prison break, break out and for fun bluetooth just think of something nice .....code it and add a few parts on this bot and you are done a working robot. 2WD? 4WD? sure no prob
SCHEMATIC AND PCB LAYOUTS WILL BE GIVEN WHILE GOING THROUGH THE GUIDE
Intentionally I was planning to make a Japanese style sumobot but then I realized I lacked resources and machinery to make the frame. So with my scrap parts from old robots I recycled most of the parts to make new circuits and attach useful sensors to make it compact and reliable.
POLOLU Metal Gearmotor Key specs at 12 V: 500 RPM and 300 mA free-run, 84 oz-in (5 kg-cm) and 5 A stall.
Li-po battery 1300 mah 4s
ITG3205 3-axis gyroscope
BMA180 3-axis accelerometer
BMP085 pressure sensor
HMC5883L 3-axis Magnetometer
2x L298 motor driver
Arduino mini clone
SHARP PROXIMITY SENSORS
Reflectance sensor array.
REGULATED MOTOR POWER SUPPLY
Why is it equipped with a compass module? and all the the other sensors
We all know not all motors are balanced so I decided to add a compass to make its direction movement precise instead of using encoders because i dont have any. And the other are for future ideas
Step 1: TOOLS AND MATERIALS:
ARDUINO MINI CLONE OR MultiWii Multi-Copter Flight Control Board for more convenience
2x L298 for more power on the motors
SWEEP RC CAR TIRES "VERY STICKY"
7805 5v volt regulator
RT9163 3.3v Regulator
one thousand ohms
ten thousand ohms
PIN HEADERS MALE and FEMALE
M3 BOLT AND NUT
Aluminum L bracket
TAMIYA HUBS for 6mm SHAFT
KINSTEN DOUBLE SIDE FIBERGLASS PCB
POLOLU 19:1 GEARED MOTOR
EGBT- 045MS "BLUETOOTH MODULE"
Step 2: DESIGNING YOUR ROBOT pt1
We first start of with the motors and how many will you use for your robot? 2WD 4WD TRACKED?. In the world of robotics geared motors are used all the time since it packs allot of power. To make things simple in making a multipurpose robot you will be needing a well balanced and reliable motor that has more than enough torque and speed. So I decided to choose the pololu 19:1 gearbox in 2WD configuration I know 2wd may not be really multipurpose but that is all i have right now so its up to you to design your own small 4wd robot or anything convenient that you may say a real multipurpose robot.
In my experience in joining competition if you want precise movements you would like slower motors since faster ones tend to shift its position because of the inertia when the robot is running.
Torque = Provides a high output power. (ex. A truck needs high torque when climbing up a hill with a heavy load "1st gear")
Speed = The RPM rating, swiftness of an object (ex. On a flat surface, race cars need a lot of speed to catch up "7th gear")
When using the same motor setup, high-torque gearboxes have a lower speeds, while high-speed gearboxes have lower torques.
Step 3: MOTOR MOUNTS
By downloading the the file below you can get the exact dimension of the mounts just like the one in pololu just print it then add double side tape on the print out then cut out the print out then stick it on the aluminum bracket when you are done with that you can now cut and drill the required holes for you to mount your motors. At this point take your time building it, because if you want to make your robot move straight your motor mounts should be properly made.
Or~.... If you are lazy and perhaps you live in the US just buy your motor mounts in POLOLU or ASK HELP FROM the crafty people :D
Step 4: COMPACT non PCB MOTOR DRIVER
"USE FRITZING program TO OPEN THE FILE" and go to schematic to get a better view of it
(WILL BE UPDATING THIS STEP TO MAKE THINGS EASY FOR YOU GUYS :D)
Why 2 l298's?
I want more power on my robot so i give it a whole 4A rating on each motor instead of 2A
THE UPPER PART OF THE IC is the ground so yeah feel free to solder there
I know when you put things in parallel you increase the current output but it does not work in "bridge type driver
Step 5: FIBERGLASS PCB CHASSIS
WHAT THE HELL WHY FIBERGLASS PRESYNTHESIZED PCB what a waste of money!
Yeah I get that alot in school but since this is a multipurpose robot you can add pcb layouts on your chassis as you finish the desired robot.
Remember to leave space at the back of your chassis where you can add extra holes to attach your expandable chassis giving more space for your project
There is also a good thing about this its because fiberglass is an alternative of carbon fiber which means this thing can withstand a beating just like the second photo its been trough 15 versions of sumobot designs all with awards as 1st place and 2nd but never champion
Step 6: Mounting the all the basic parts
When done with the chassis drill all the things you need to attach the motor mounts on to the chassis and while doing so i would suggest placing your L298 driver on top of the gearbox. When finished its time to prepare the wheels and HUBS. and just attach it by the shape anyone can do it~
When done again prepare your stand offs and prototyping PCB screw the stand offs along with the board when done align everything up and drill the holes. screw everything up and it should look like the last image with out the components .......we are now going to that part
Step 7: Main board
I you are doing this for a real competition I highly suggest using the Multiwii flight controller for more info just google it yourself + here a link MULTIWII JUST OPEN THE FRITZING FILE AND YOU WILL BE OKAY AND FEEL FREE TO ASK ME QUESTIONS
things to remember with the compass modules and gyroscopes etc analog 4 is SDA 5 is SCL because of its I2C properties combining all these module's sda and scl pin is alright because the way these modules communicate is by their Id's meaning the the atmega 328 can idetify the module by their id's "according to my brother that is"
Step 8: IR SENSOR ARRAY (LINE FOLLOWER)
For this part you will be needing a 1K and 10K resistor you can use a 220 to replace then 1K but then again the sensor will be too sensitive making it hard to calibrate especially when the lighting is different around the robot.
USING eagleCad edit the layout according to your sensor array with the given schematic. And if you have any idea of improving the sensor array tell us your ideas on the comments i will be waiting~
And for making the pcb on the chassis watch this vid or if you really cant do it a marker would be nice to make your layout.
REMEMBER TO MAKE 2 MORE SENSORS FOR THE SUMOBOT CONFIGURATION do not use the sensor array for the sumobot because this will not react to the edges of your robot quickly because it is more on the center.
Step 9: SUMOBOT SCOOP
A crucial part to the world of sumobot
A sharp and well angled blade/scoop will always make you win even if your bot looks like its from a junkyard Just make sure that people dont see it as a blade because it is actually illegal to use sharp scoops for safety reason
USE a dremel to cut the cutter blade and after that sand/remove the oil on the blade so that we can mount it on the base plate using hot glue
Step 10: FINALIZING + CODING
At this point you have a working robot with out a program yet and probably you would say your robot is missing something because of my guide well its my first time doing this so sorry
Summary of the things done and should be done
THE CODE FOR THE ROBOT WILL BE RELEASED ON MARCH 12 AFTER THE COMPETITION IN OUR COUNTRY FOR THE meanwhile with the permission of my real life friend ASCAS you can look at his bluetooth code to control the sumobot
Step 11: Old robots
im still looking for my 2012-2013 pictures all i have here is from my phone I will update this to give you guys more Ideas
Step 12: FPV SETUP just for fun (SPYBOT)
things you need
FPV CAMERA OR JUST USE A GOPRO IF YOU HAVE ONE. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HN5VT1E/ref=o...
AND A Boscam TS351+RC805 5.8G FPV 200mW AV Transmitter TX 2KM for 5.8GHz Rx Receiver
AND A SMALL MONITOR :D
and for your robots tx rx its up to you :D