Inspired by the WeeP 5 Gun and other numerous mods such as the Egogun, i decided to build my own as well. It all started of with a piece of cheap third party plastic, which will come in very useful for this mod, but more on that later. After only a couple of hours of playing with the "Wii Rumble Light Gun" the trigger broke and playing ended frustrating. After that cheap disappointment i bought the Scorpion VII, which lasted a year before that one gave up on me. At the end of the Scorpion VII lifespan, it just couldn't stay synchronized any longer than a minute and less. That gun also suffers a weak trigger, but i solved that. So my next goal was to find something new and to my surprise i stumbled across a new solution presented by BigBen, the Walter P99. The Walther P99 can be used by left and right handed people by the push of a switch. For some reason which i don't know why, the cursor would start jumping around, so i sent the gun back and made use of the money back guarantee. All in all i had two versions of the Walter P99 and both ended up with the same weakness. In comparison of the Scorpion VII and the BigBen P99, id rate the Scorpion more durable and of better craftsmanship, if one can speak of that with mass production. Furthermore, you'll need a thumb as long as a Chimpanzee to reach the cross of the P99 but the trigger lasted and seemed to be a stable construction. The perfect Gun could be a combination of both worlds!
Things needed to make and do.
1 Spring driven Airsoft G36C / M85 Rifle
Nunchuk und Wii Remote
Everything needed to solder
Hot Glue Gun
13 Momentary switches
13 Male Female connectors
Enough wires!! from a defect GameCube/ Wavebird and their extension cables
Drill and driller
Fine metal file and saw.
1 matte black spray paint
Triwing and Philips screwdriver
M5 threaded rod 5mm thread
Self sealing tape if liked
Wire cutting Pliers plus cable stripper
Sharp pocket Knife or something similar
Red laser pointer
A piece of Infrared plastic (Old TV's have 'em)
Wii Rumble Light Gun
Checking a second hand gaming store or the flee market is also a good idea for the Rumble Light Gun and the battery pack. I was just lucky to have them.
A good portion of time, patience and accuracy.
I started this Mod off with a MP7A1 Toy Gun in mind which i purchased at Miniinthebox for 6$ incl. shipment. But i thought its a M85 Rifle you might think, bloody right mate but this Mod undergoes a Metamorphosis. Something like a caged Butterfly from Alice in Wonderland or The Wizard of OZ.)
Well now that you are prepared lets continue onto the next step.
auf eine emotionale Ebene stattfindet. Bei Männern ist es eher sowas wie ein zweck Freundschaft oder weil man Gleichgesinnt ist, selten ist es auf emotionaler Ebene.
Step 1: The Nunchuk Foregrip.
One Cut Two Cut Three Cut its as easy as ABC...
This the easiest and quickest part of the whole mod. Its easy and quick to do if you follow instructions i made with the pictures. Just make the cuts one through three and then do some filing. I did not use a permanent marker, instead a water based one and then after placing the markings, i tapped it over. This way wrong markings can easily be rubbed away.
For those of you who want to use the MP7A1 instead of the G36C, you will have to make your drilling holes here and now if you like. Use the scriber to make markings for drilling. This ensures not to slip off with slippers and fall with the driller. Keep in mind that firing the drill at high speeds can ruin your driller due to meltdown of plastic, so take it easy and try a medium stable speed. Use simple door stoppers to fill the space up and to ensure a secure fit. Cut them to fit using something sharp like a surgeons knife or so.
For the G36C Body just do the same as with the MP7A1. With the G36C, bear in mind the space between the Power Magazine and the Nunchuk. Place the Nunchuk Foregrip as far front as possible on the Weaver rail. You don't want to be caught camping because you cant move around do you? Also dont place the Nunchuk Foregrip up too close on the Guns foregrip and drill the holes through the Weaver Rail! No that didn't happen to me.
Step 2: The Power Magazine
Extra parts needed are:
Battery pack off some cheap dual/quad charge station. I advise too use Sanyo Eneloop accumulators instead.
Super Strong Glue
Pictures say more than a thousand words, so they say. Decide on which side of the guns main body you are going to place the battery connectors!! I advise the left main body part of the gun. In this early stage of the modification i have included a picture of a later stage so one can see why i chose the left side.
The Power Magazine Situation:
Anyway unscrew all the screws and open the future Power Magazine.
Take out the fake looking bullets incl. the actual BB Magazine.
Take the ex charging pack and cut it down, top and bottom.
Make a connector out of the Paperclip. See picture for further details.
Remove the foregrip of the gun and then take the main body apart, as shown on picture.
Select a position with hardly any down force on the battery pack or else it might just backfire on you. See picture for further details.
Then make your markings for the connectors and drill away space needed.
Construct your plate holder for the batteries, drill, glue and screw it tight to the position you have chosen.
Now get the golden bullets and secure fit them with little hot glue.
Powering up the MP7A1
As you can see on the picture this is a toy gun with vibrator, sound and lights. Since the Wii Remote only needs two AA Batteries and the MP7A1 has place for three, its one too much. Check the pic!
Lez move on to da step numero tres...
Step 3: Wire to Fire & File to Fit
On the internet i came along various solutions for wiring the Wii Remote up, plus different plus and minus poling positions. I think this results in different Board revisions on the market. Mine is marked as test board somewhere. This should be one of the first revisions to hit the market, my guess and i couldn't care if wrong or right. Anyway i used a simple LED to determine which pole is where, therefore you will need to connect the Power Magazine we finished just a step ago. Luckily i used a LED from the MP7A1, i think this is a cheap method if you don't have a Multimeter. I know understand the basic technique a Multimeter runs under and am able to check and find out. On picture number one one can clearly see where plus and minus are on my PCB Board.
I have also numbered the connections which i am going to use for the Nunchuk. Numbering is always from top to bottom and from right to left. The Scorpion VII Nunchuk Connector is connected with a male/female connector. Its quit obvious that they needed a new board design to get electronics fitted in the housing. I guess i could of desoldered the original Nunchuk Connector from the board and used that one instead, but i didn't. You might think and wonder why ? And i will answer because i can. This is a regular board and not the Plus version Nintendo threw on the market anno i don't know. Although i do have a plus extension, i could of used that for the Nunchuk extension as well. You might think and wonder..... Not many games make use of it anyway but with The Conduit 2 i might just change the extension and take the Plus Connector apart.
So enough sentimentality for now.....lets get to work. I advise you to make a spreadsheet or chart of which button has which colour connected to it and which colour wire is connected to which pole, plus or minus! During this Mod i advise you to take your time and check and recheck before you ruin this. Like Eminem you'll have only one shot. For each cable pair do a braid, believe me its gonna be much easier that way instead of having a million and one cables dangling all over the show. For each button i used a male / female connector. I also ran out of them, so i got myself some PC 3 Pin to 2 Pin Fan connectors. The one extra PIN on each of those connectors came in very handy during testing. With the extra PIN i could easily disconnect the connection and still have 'em cables not parted. That way you can call of the search like Katie Melua or y'all gonna be searchin' like Monica in the end. No that didn't happen to me. Keep in mind that all the cables from the Wii Board running into the guns main body are only joined with the male/female connectors in the body. Later on the show you shall see what I'm trying to transport in words. Only the Nunchuk solder points 1-6 where directly soldered with male / female connectors. You don't have to but you can do it this way. Like Franky said i did it my way.
When soldering its essential using solder paste!
Another tip is to hot glue each pair of cables to the Wii Board. That way the wire connection wont brake off.
Put some tape over the lens of the camera to protect it from any dust.
ABS plastic doesn't melt down that easy, instead it gets dusty. So wear a pair of glasses and don't breath that petroleum dust in.
Decoding the colours!!
Red = Plus Pole
Blue = Minus "
Green = Speaker
Preparing the Wii Board to fit in
For this, one has to do some filing on the Wii Board but don't worry that's no hassle. On Picture #1 you will see two black lines which indicate unto where i filed the board down, in order to fit inside the silencer nicely. Before we go on hold the silencer on the barrels thread and make yourself two marking points from where you start turning the silencer on the barrel. The first marking point make on the silencer, the second marking point on the barrel. These two points have to align with each other, otherwise your Wii camera could be pointing upside down after installation. Just like Madonna it'll be Hung Up if you don't take my advice. Now screw the Silencer on and mark where top, bottom, left and right are on the Silencer. Keep in mind which side is top of the Wii Remote.
Now pay close attention earthling your heart beat might go up and Adrenalin might be shooting through your brain before doing this, whilst asking should i ? Well if i did then you can to. Just cut the front part of the barrel off as shown on picture numero 5. Then get a driller and drill some free space away in the tunnel, that way cables will fit through better! Now fiddle them cables through the threaded part of the silencer (Refer to The Silencer Situation) and then through the wing part you just drilled space free, for this i tied them cables all up tight.
If you would like to place a camera or a laser as shown on the sixth picture, simply cut what you need away. I decided for the laser instead of the camera. The reason my pick was a laser for this was, where to place the 9V Battery for the cam ? Best would be the Power Magazine between the fake Golden Bullets with an opening from the bottom of the Power Magazine. That way the original look can be kept. In combination with a Video Grabber Card one can make awesome Vids and get them uploaded somewhere on the Inet. The laser is really only for the look of it and its a rather weak one i stripped outta the MP7A1, so it wont be reflecting back into the eye of the beholder, ya know Metallica.) A modern day TV adsorbs a red laser almost completely away anyway. Aligning the laser with the hairline cross wont work out. So dont give any effort to it although it would be awesome.
Next Step: The Silencer Situation
On picture number eight you can see what is to be done. Sorry for poor quality, I've included a better picture of that part. I used a very sharp pocket knife for this. After nearly cutting my finger off i decided to wear a pair of gloves while doing this. Simply stab in between the two parts gently and move the knife slowly from left to right, pull out and go on as you move around. Also check to see how deep the knife has to be stuck in before beginning. If you're not able too cut the complete distance down needed, do it little by little. I once stuck in to deep and the knives point came out on the other side. Luckily only minor so take it easy and wear gloves. Do not try any chemicals such as thinner or so on ABS Plastic. I think cutting is best and you will will see no marks if done well.
Next Step: The Icky Yicky Sticky Situation
Here for the guns main body or of whats left of it, needs to be put back together both left and right side. We need it to assure the correct distance. Of what ? Wait and read. The part of the barrel we cut off needs a strong bondage with the foregrip. Place enough super glue on what i call the wings both left and right, they slide into leads on the inside of the foregrip. Slide it in and then attach the foregrip on the guns body until you hear it snap. The snapping depends on if you have the spring button in or not. Its not essential but will make it easier. Now press back and hold down the part with the wings i mentioned and wait until bondage takes place.
Now you should be half way through this modification. Be patient and check and recheck.
Step 4: MP7A1
This Step is dedicated completely to the MP7A1.
Places & Buttons :
Well this is where it actually ends for the MP7A1, in real life it got replaced by the G36C and i did likewise, it wasn't my plan. Anyway i hope pictures explain most of the job, but don't worry you MP7A1ers. The G36C needs buttons as well.
The yellow D-Pad buttons i took of a defect N64 Controller. I prefer a separate button for each function of the D-Pad. Why ? Well it all so often happened that i wanted to load my secondary weapon of destruction, but instead i launched a grenade and blew my virtual life up. Sike i ran like Rabbit did...ahm Eminem and got away. Well any way i guess you get what i mean. The cool red ones are off my ex Scorpion VII i stripped, as well as the Nunchuk Connector and the Resync button. Pictures are only examples of how it could be. A pity i didn't make a picture of the Wii Board fitted in. On the MP7A1 there is some serious plastic surgery too be fulfilled. I think I'm ready to do a plastic surgery DIY tutorial. On this mod i made a mistake by cutting the barrel Too $hort. Check the picture for details.
Like The Greenhornes say There is an End and in German we say. Alles hat ne Ende nur die Worscht hat zwei jawohl mein Schatz es ist vorbei...
Goodbye MP7A1 and thanks for me dreaming about you. lol
On to the next step.
Step 5: Time to get serious and Engaged.
Well not much to explain here except to be sure about the position of all buttons. Think it over, check and recheck. Use the scriber to make good marks to drill. Remember if you don't the drill just might go ice skating over the plastic. And always put something solid under the plastic you drill through, not like me. I have a thick piece of cloth and yes it happened once and things went flying. Lucky me i keep my construction ground neat and tidy. After that i placed a piece of Plexiglas underneath drilling grounds. I also secured all wires with a drop of super glue just in case. You know bent once to often it brakes. A further tip is to solder all wires, even if you have other connectors that fit perfectly on the PINs of the female / male connectors. Yes that happened to me as well. And remember isolating each cable; even you do it my way using regular tape! Better than nothing. And no that didn't happen to me.
What functions superbly as a spacer is something fancy that women use. Women use these foam for when painting their toe nails. It gives a very good pressure point and can be easily cut with a strong and stable dressmaking scissors your Grandma has, not these skinny modern day crap scissors. All you need to find out is the best distance between Momentary switches and the outside buttons.
Making the Laser Power Supply Station lol
Here i used a pocket light from back in the day when these things were new on the market. Thinking of a solution for the laser it stricked my mind. The cap i screwed on to where the bulb actually would be, right no LEDs in those days. The reason is because the housing is made out of Aluminum and soldering wont work on it. Instead i used the threads for placing a piece of wire around it, a Paperclip should work fine. For the spring, check explanation on picture. First i wanted to use a switch to turn power on and off, instead one just needs to screw the cap out a bit and power flow is interrupted.
Gotta update something essential. I placed the housing of the torch where it is now, since there are plastic moulds that look as if this design could carry a battery version with lights and so on. What i did was to heat up the housing with a 50W Solder Iron. After enough heat is transported you might smell a light smell of the plastic. That's a good indicator to press against the housing of the torch. Dont hurry or else something could happen. Check a picture in Step 6: Keep the iron on the housing so it doesn't cool down and press using a thick Screwdriver or so. Proceed with this procedure until the wished depth is reached! Then secure housing with super glue.
Making the Figure Trigger
As one can see on the picture i just drilled a hole, placed a screw with a M5 Thread plus a suitable nut. The nut i secured with super glue. Choose the right length for the screw and Position the B-Button and you ready to fire. Secure the B-Button with Hot Glue!
The Bumble Rumble Vs. Jungle Rumble
I bet you thinking whats wrong with this Guy ? Well ill get to the point. Nintendos Rumble unit has a humble feeling to it while the Scorpion is like a rumble in the Jungle. My choice felt for my Scorpion rumble. Position and secure with Hot Glue.
Making the Nunchuk Connector Fit
Take exact measurements of the Nunchuk Connector with the Caliper rule and get the drawing on underneath the Handgrip with the Scriber. Make the measurements a bit smaller, then cut away bit by bit. Remember too check and recheck. Here i nearly cut another finger off as well. I just sealed the cut and went on. When everything fits, secure it with Hot Glue, don't be too stingy but don't be to generous with the glue.
OK i think the final step is next....
Step 6: The One Seeing 3ye
The Eye Of Horus:
Well now its time to complete the job. In my case i used the Infrared piece of the Scorpion Vii, it just happens to be round as well. I had to make the hole of the Silencer a bit bigger. Therefore i centered the Infrared piece and draw a circle with a Scriber, a Scriber is not a must and anything else that's pointy like a needle or a screw will work as well. I drilled away as much as i could with the drill and then i filed little by little. Its not glued on but is a press fit solution i made. File in an angle direction, like a funnel. Do this job before you put in the Wii Board. Well all that's left too be done is to slide in the Wii Board, screw on the thread cap, join the Silencer housing with the cap and hot glue the complete construction. Don't forget taking the tape of the camera.
Completing the Nunchuk Foregrip:
There's not much to say about the last step. I chose matte black for the finish but if you like you can choose any other funky colour or do some stars and stripes or whatever. Not that i under estimate the users here and their knowledge but be prepared for the youngest or so. I don't dare say for dummies, cause DIYelfers definitively aren't that. Clean the Nunchuk Foregrip with alcohol to remove any fat marks. When spray painting be careful not to come to close or tears might fall and spray in a u way. Get the blow dryer out and blow dry to use immediately.
The Speaker Situation:
Now its time to get Nintendos Ghetto Blaster in place. Recapitulate the green markings on the Wii Board i marked for you Girls and Guys. Use some super glue or even double sided sticky icky tape. I used super glue.
This isn't a very light Gun but its not too heavy either. Game play is awesome but will be straineous if held incorrectly. Which ever hand holds the Nunchuk, the arm has to be pressed against your body. So something like the real thingy here. If not your wrist will start paining sooner or later. I guess that's why the Nintendo Zapper has the Nunchuk at the back. A ball joint for the Nunchuk Foregrip will solve this minor issue. I first had that in mind anyway and just might change construction. R/C toys often come out with ball joints, mainly the cars or helis. Other than that it works splendidly and l love it. So as soon as you are ready to go do it like Metallica did with Kill 'em All. Strap on your G36C VK Gun, throw in Mickeys Epic and do some thinning and painting. You could also throw in Goldeneye or any other virtual killing game.
Well that about rounds it up, all you have to do is get that Gun together. On picture #12 you will have to leave 'em screws away.
I hope you all love my Mod and holla at me if you have any questions. If you do a remake ill be honoured, again holla at me and send me some pictures. And if you have solved something differently ill be pleased to know.
Oh and don't worry them cuts were minor injuries....ouch i slipped off the Keyboard and broke my finger.(
Thanks for reading.....ZanTarG
Step 7: Pimp My Sensor Bar Please....
The Sensor Bar Situation :
Now this really disturbed me much in the beginning but as a Human i adapted too it. No matter top or bottom of the TV the cursor would be either in the upper top or bottom of the screen, best place was the top. Any way i got myself a cheap solution off Miniinthebox and modified what Nintendo brought to the market. The fake SB is of good quality and has no flaws, except that it uses three IR-LED's on each side instead of five with the original Nintendo SB.
Picture one and two show original and fake.
Steps to take :
Unscrew it and take out the IR-LED's and connect them wires and keep the correct polling of the wires. This time i used a CAT5 Cable to do the job. I think the pictures are self explaining. All that has to be done is the best positioning, it all depends on screen size and the height you are sitting on. I used double sided tape to secure fit it. Now i can hold the Gun in a normal position without having pointing upwards nor downwards. The cursor is now centered holding the gun in a normal position. Like Caro Emerald i know that hes mine.
Thanks goes out tho this Guy and Nintendo not considering any kinda adjustment what so ever for larger screens.
I hate Cheaters and Campers and like hunting them down. I do snipe but not mainly in a waiting position like others.
The last picture exposes my name and Mister Hacker had that exploding Hack.