This project started because we're about to embark on the (hopefully) wonderful journey of parenthood. We're figured this would be a good time to fix our broken cargo bike. And why not make make into a small house for the kid, now we're at it.
We started out the project during late summer, hoping the duration would not exceed a couple of weeks. Regretfully, there we're lots of bumps in the road, and now, more than 2 months after initiation, it is still not finished (BTW she is now 1 week past due date *GULP*). Hopefully it will be finished within the next couple of days, but no promises can be made - since I don't know when she's gonna pop :)
Step 1: Scrapped Cargo Bike
This was how we found the bike, a year ago. No wheels, worn out carrier box, but the frame was in OK condition. (Attaching wheels is not included in this instructable)
Step 2: Removing old cabinet
Easily and quickly done by removing the nuts and bolts. Quite easy when the carrier was as worn out as the one I had.
Step 3: Painting the frame
I had to remove the 2 front wheels to access the bottom-section. I only painted the part of the frame, which is a part of the "house-structure". This was done to make the "house-structure" stand out.
Step 4: Choose material for bottom and sides
The bottom part should be a material very resistant of moist. I used molding plywood, which is a the typical choice for the Copenhagen-based cargo bike company, Christiania-cykler. It's pricey, but it will do the job. An alternative could be a sort of metal.
The sides really needed to imitate the Swedish style, so the first to actually place a number of wooden planks. on top of eachother. But when my local hardware store suggested siding plywood, it seemed like the easier choice :)
The sides were sawn in the right angle (My carrier had a 5cm drop from the back to the front of the carrier. (Unfortunately I forgot to document this, so no photos)
To When you drill, make sure to pre-drill with a small, and then drill from both sides. This will avoid nasty cracks, and leave you with a nice clean hole.
I used a Brad Point Bit for wood, and as soon as I made it through, I drilled it from the other side.
Step 5: Paint the sides
If the sides consist of a material prone to weather deterioration, then make sure the paint will impregnate properly.
My local hardware store actually had a paint, labeled "Swedish House Red". This was my obvious choice.
Step 6: Print Windows
(You can choose to make you windows in other ways if you prefer. I just recently got access to a 3D-printer, so I thought it would be fun to try)
Download the 3D-files for the windows If you'd like:
Swedish Window front - STL
Swedish Window back - STL
Use PLA. I tried using ABS, but it warped way to much, so the prints couldn't be used. The couldn't even finish printing.
(be conservative, don't go to big, especially if you already printed the windows)
Step 7: Add wooden mouldings
(My sides were 12mm thick, so the moulding had a 12mm wide groove
I had to cut it into 2 x 600mm and 2 x 400mm
Again remember the paint she protect the wood from rain similar
(I used a hammer along with a magazine not to break the paint)
Step 8: Optional Rainroof - Gables (in progress)
I had to take into account that it could fit a grown person, so it couldn't resemble a traditionel triangular roof, which was my first thought. The practicality taken into consideration, this was an OK solution, but it's a pity it doesn't look like the house envisioned.
I bought 4m of Ø22 stainless steel, which was quite expensive. You could do with normal steel and the add some paint the prevent rust/corrision
You need to do some calculations in the intersections between the pipes. It's a good idea to draw it properly, after/when doing the calculations. This will help you not make any mistakes.
I used a Mig Welder to retain the stainless properties of the steel pipes.
It was extremely hard to weld at the exact degrees necessary to make it fit (this is probably because this was one of the first time ever I welded). Therefore it was necessary to bend the welded gable structures to counter my welding/sawing mistakes. This was gently done by hammering at the right spots.